"Sketches of Lynn
Or The
Changes Of Fifty Years"
by David N. Johnson

Transcribed and submitted
by Shaun Cook

To help transcribe or submit information, please e-mail Shaun Cook.

THE TRANSITION PERIOD, pgs. 332-356

As already intimated in a former chapter, the revolution in the methods of carrying on the shoe trade in all its branches began with the introduction of the sewing machine in 1852. Slight advantages in the way of improved kit had been gained before. As early as 1834 an "edge iron" was introduced to polish - or "sleek," as the shoemakers called it - the heavy edges of "welts" and "imitation," in place of the old-fashioned "shoulder-stick." This iron is in the writer's possession, and upon it is inscribed - "This is the first double-iron ever made; invented by John Johnson, and made by Aaron Tufts, Lynn." The term "double" meant that it had two "shoulders," one on each side-one for the thickest edges, the other for the lightest. As the iron could be heated, this "hot kit" gave the edges a polish and solidness which the wooden "shoulder-stick" could not do. A veteran shoemaker informs the writer that he used such an iron before the above date. "Soap stones" were also used, to some extent, to polish the edges in making "heavy work."

Several other small inventions, each one slight in itself, improved the art of the shoemaker, making the work of his hands better as the years went on. Two more important improvements were made prior to 1852 - patterns for "rounding on " the soles, and "block" lasts, which superseded the use of "instep-leathers." (This piece of kit was inadvertently omitted in the list given in a previous chapter.) The "instep-leather" in the hands of the old-time shoemaker was not exactly an enchanter's rod; but he could do wonders with it by skillful manipulation. If he wished to make a "slim" shoe he would not push it so far toward the toe. If the boss told him to make 'em "full" then no such caution was used, and perhaps a wedge would be driven in besides. Good workmen had several instep-leathers, so as to meet all emergencies; but the poor workman - poor in skill and poorer in purse - often had but one, which was made to play fast and loose along a sliding scale of geometrical proportions between the widest extremes of "slim" and "full." One can imagine the comments made as a lot of these shoes were examined by the "boss." "Uncle Jim! what did you 'sew these shoes out' so for; did n't you have any instep-leather?" Then the boss would try to get his hand down toward the toe, but could n't. Then he would take up another pair, and put his hand in each shoe by turns. "That's about right, Uncle Jim, full enough, plenty;" and so, perhaps, Uncle Jim consoled himself with the thought that he had made the average about right. One lot of these shoes would sometimes fulfill pretty much all conditions of "fullness" and "slimness." And so one would hear in the retail stores - "Have you a pair of fives, slim?" The dealer, not knowing exactly where to look, would examine all the fives he had, and when he found a pair that he supposed were about right, one of them could be got on the foot, but the other could n't. This illustrates the science of those times. The "block" last swept away this relic of mechanical barbarism, and brought uniformity of fullness out of the chaos of uncertainty, by making it necessary for the workman to "last" the upper down snug over the block. The instep-leather thus came to an end, and no longer tempted the genius of the sons of Crispin. The sole-pattern gave uniformity of shape and width, as the block-last had made certain the uniformity of fullness, and so these two essential conditions in the shoemaker's art were secured.

It is now but little more than thirty years since the practice of making lasts of regularly graded widths was adopted. Before this time, shoes were classed in two general divisions, wide and narrow, full and slim, the wide being generally full, and the narrow generally slim, but not always. As already shown, a good deal of uncertainty hung over it. When some one having an eye to method made known the plan of labelling the narrowest lasts used "A," next in width "B," and so on to "D," a long stride was taken, though it now seems so simple a thing.

What was called the '"Kimball" last was introduced about 1848. This was the first really scientific last used in the making of ladies' shoes. Each set of these lasts had "sliding blocks" that fitted into a groove in the last, each block marked "slim," "medium," or "full." This gave all grades of fullness. Other block-lasts were afterward used, and more especially when the work came to be done in the large factories. This block was sawed out from the top of the last, and regular graded fullness was secured by having the uppers lasted down snug to the block when it was in its proper place. (Similar block-lasts had long been in use in making men's boots and shoes.) This shut out all uncertainty, and left the workman no room for the display of originality. As, by this arrangement, each last was made of the required fullness there was no chance for any mistake that might have come from the use of the wrong block, when there were three or four of them of different degrees of fullness belonging to each set of lasts. These lasts were also graded according to width; each last of each set being marked. There were four grades, A, B, C and D; A representing the narrowest, and D the widest.

Almost simultaneously with this improvement in lasts, was the introduction of the "Congress Boot." This invention consisted in the insertion of a "rubber gore" on either side of the top of the boot. Its elasticity obviated the necessity of the "lace," which is indispensable when non-elastic material is used. This style became very popular on account of its convenience. The patent for Essex county was granted to Charles Winslow, of Lynn, near the close of 1848.

BINDING SHOES

The introduction of the sewing machine, soon made the old-fashioned method of binding shoes by hand well nigh a lost art. The machine at first did its work but indifferently well; but improvements were soon made that overcame all the essential difficulties that lay in the way of complete success. The saving of labor was so great, and the nicety of the work, which could be done with almost mathematical exactness, was so far beyond the old-time product of the hand-needle that in a few years the shoe-binder, and her mission, became historical reminiscences. But these reminiscences are worthy a place in these pages.

The shoe-binder of Lynn performed a very important part in the domestic economy of the household thirty, or more, years ago. The shoemaker's wife and daughters - if he had any - were often his best bowers, enabling him to weather many a financial tempest - on a small scale - and were often the chief reliance when the head of the family, through sickness, or other causes, could no longer work to support the family. As the wife and daughters "bound" the shoes made by the workmen of the family, the "uppers," all ready to "bind," with the needful silk, cotton and thread, and sometimes beeswax, made part of the load carried home in the "little cart," or in some other way, from the boss' shop. Then there would be a little delay, perhaps, until a shoe was bound, with which to start ofr the new lot.

But, generally, before the" jour" got his "stock" seasoned, one or two "uppers" were ready, and enough were usually bound ahead to keep all hands at work. And so, now and then, the order would be heard - "Come, John, go and see if your mother has got a shoe bound; I'm all ready to last it." It may be well to notice here that the "jours" often called the "uppers" shoes, and the soles "stuffs." Accordingly, one would hear the remark - " The , boss' did n't give me 'stuffs' enough" - meaning soles - or, "Come, William, go over to Isaiah's and get me a lot of shoes and 'stuffs.' '' The dictionaries do not recognize this use of the word "stuffs," but the shoemakers did.

The style of "uppers" in vogue some forty years ago, and later, was a "foxed" boot. This foxing was of kid, with lasting top, and the boot laced in front. A few years later the "gaiter boot" came into fashion, which usually had a lower foxing, and the "lace" on the side. These were usually made "right" and "left." The binding of these boots, when it was done well, was quite a nice job. The price of binding ranged from seventeen to twenty-five cents a pair, and a smart woman could bind four pairs a day, and sometimes even more.

It will be seen that such help was no small item - in maintaining the family. Many a little home was earned by "all hands," father and mother, boys and girls, who worked for years, cheered by the hope of paying off the mortgage, so that they could have a "house of their own." The following verses, written by Lucy Larcom, and found in a volume of her poems, may not be out of place here:

HANNAH BINDING SHOES.

   Poor lone Hannah,
Sitting at the window, binding shoes.
   Faded, wrinkled,
Sitting, stitching, in a mournful muse.
Bright-eyed beauty once was she,
When the bloom was on the tree:
   Spring and winter
Hannah's at the window, binding shoes.

   Not a neighbor
Passing nod or answer will refuse,
   To her whisper,
"Is there from the fishers any news?"
O, her heart's adrift, with one
On an endless voyage gone!
   Night and morning,
Hannah's at the window, binding shoes.

   Fair young Hannah,
Ben, the sun-burnt fisher, gayly woos,
   Hale and clever,
For a willing heart and hand he sues.
Mid-day skies are all aglow,
And the waves are laughing so!
   For her wedding,
Hannah leaves her window and her shoes.

   May is passing:
Mid the apple boughs a pigeon coos,
   Hannah shudders,
For the mild southwester mischief brews,
Round the rocks of Marblehead:
Outward bound, a schooner sped:
   Silent, lonesome,
Hannah's at the window, binding shoes.

   "T is November,
Now no tear her wasted cheek bedews.
   From Newfoundland
Not a sail returning wilt she lose,
Whispering hoarsely. "Fishermen
Have you, have you heard of Ben?"
   Old with watching,
Hannah's at the window, binding shoes.

   Twenty winters
Bleach and tear the ragged shore she views.
   Twenty seasons:
Never one has brought her any news.
Still her dim eyes silently
Chase the white sails o'er the sea:
   Hopeless, faithful,
Hannah's at the window, binding shoes.

But the introduction of the sewing machine ended all this, and soon were seen the stitching shops in different parts of the city, (Lynn became a city in 1850,) and the peculiar rattle of the machine made a new music more suggestive of industry than of the harmony of sweet sounds. These shops were sometimes small buildings standing by themselves, but more frequently rooms fitted up in some part of the shoe factory. But these machines were destined to have a wider use than that afforded by the stitching shop of the shoe manufacturer. They soon found their way into almost every house to be used, not only for the various kinds of work required in stitching "uppers," but for every kind of sewing needed in the household.

Soon after the sewing machine was brought into use the whirligig of time brought heeled shoes - for ladies - again into fashion. This style had prevailed for some time prior to 1830, when the "spring heel" gradually led the way to no heel at all, a few years after this date. About 1855, the demand for heeled shoes again began, and with this demand began the practice of employing the "jours" to work in the factories of the manufacturers to "heel" the shoes. From this grew up that specialty in the shoemaker's trade known as "heeling." A man working exclusively at this branch of the craft soon became an expert, even though he knew nothing else of the art of shoemaking. The "heeling" was afterward subdivided into "nailing," "shaving," "blacking" and "polishing; " and from this gradually came that minute division which is now the marked feature in this business, distinguishing the new order of things from the old. Before this time the shoemaker got his "stock" in the crudest form; sometimes cutting the soles from part of a side of leather, and making the shoes complete in everything pertaining to the "bottoms," so that when it left his hands it was ready for the foot of the wearer. The period was now reached when the great change took place. The revolution in the shoe business occurred during the ten years ending 1865. From 1855, or a little later, the workmen began to leave the "little shop" to work in the factories of the manufacturers; and in a few years vacant shops were seen all over the city, until most of them were transformed into henhouses or coal-pens, or were moved and joined to some house to make a snug little kitchen. Some of the larger ones were sold to men of slender means to be finished off into a tenement, eked out, perhaps, by a small addition, that made it look very much like a house. A few still linger among us, characteristic mementoes of the olden time; and fewer still are occupied by the small number of veteran shoemakers - for the most part - who could not find it an easy thing to break up the associations of long years, and so "stood by" the "old shop," and did a little "hand work" for those manufacturers who made no "machine work," or whose business included both kinds.

The introduction of the McKay machine, in 1862, made as complete a revolution in the work of the shoemaker as the stitching machine had done for the binder. To those not familiar with the "craft" it may be interesting to know why this was so. The machine-made shoe is, as a matter of necessity, a doubled-soled shoe; and, hence, took the place, in a great degree, of the old hand-made "welt." This hand-made welted shoe required two seams, the inner seam, or the sewing-in of the welt - and upper - and the "stitching," or sewing together of the welt and the outer sole. The average time required in sewing each of these seams was not less than fifteen minutes, or half an hour for each shoe, or an hour for each pair. The McKay machine, by sewing directly through inner sole, upper and outer sole, substituted one seam for two; and when it was worked by "power," such was the expedition of its movements that eighty pairs an hour have been stitched upon it, giving less than twenty-three seconds to each shoe.

The McKay machine was first run by foot power. The introduction of steam power into the shoe factory did not become general until some years after the McKay machine, came into use. Steam, as a motive power to facilitate the making of shoes, was first introduced into the factory of John Wooldredge, in 1858. It was used to run a machine for making heels. Mr. Wooldredge also merits the distinction - as mentioned in a preceding chapter - of having introduced the sewing machine into Lynn.

Soon after the close of the war, in 1865, the introduction of steam became general in all the large shoe factories. The use of the McKay machine suggested the economy of steam power; and it also suggested, and almost made necessary, a dozen minor inventions - mostly the products of the mechanics engaged in the craft - some of them exceedingly ingenious and effective in saving labor. This brought about the division of work already alluded to, and classified it into separate departments.

To show how minute is the division of labor in the shoe factory of to-day, the following list, showing the number of operatives employed upon the different parts, will well illustrate:

Beginning with the sole cutter - 1, stripper; 2, sole-cutter; 3, sorter; 4, tier-up.

Beginning now with the upper stock in the cutting-room - 1, outside cutter; 2, lining cutter; 3, trimming cutter; 4, dier-out.

When the uppers reach the stitching shop they pass - 5, into the hands of the lining maker; 6, closer; 7, seam-rubber; 8, back-stayer; 9, frontstayer; 10, closer-on; 11, turner; 12, top-stitcher; 13, button-hole cutter; 14, corder; 15, vamper; 16, button sewer-on.

The uppers and bottom stock are now taken to the lasting - or finishing - room. As we have already seen, the bottom stock has passed through four processes, ending with the tier-up. These, added to the sixteen through which the uppers have passed, make twenty before they reach the hands of the stock-fitter. From this point the process goes on - 21, stock-fitter; 22, laster; 23, solelayer; 24, stitcher; 25, beater-out; 26, trimmer; 27, setter; 28, liner; 29, nailer; 30, shaver; 31, buffer; 32, burnisher; 33, channeller. To these is sometimes added a channel-turner. Boys usually perform these minor parts.

And these various processes, minute as they seem, give but a partial view of the multiplied divisions that have already taken place. To illustrate this still further: In some of the manufactories the "nailing" and "shaving" are done by a McKay "nailer and shaver." A boy "sets" the nails, a single stroke of the machine fastens them, and a circular motion of the machine shaves the heel with geometrical exactness at one cut, and in an instant of time. The boys who perform these minor parts gain a nimbleness of manipulation that gives them an expertness hardly possible to be gained by older hands. These forty, more or less, distinct operations will soon become fifty, and the end is not yet. But perfection is never reached. New inventions still spring from the brain of the ingenious mechanic, and inferior contrivances drop into oblivion, or find their way to the cabinets of antiquarians.

All the adjuncts of the shoe business grow up, chiefly, during this transition period. Among others was-

SOLE-CUTTING.

The sole-cutting business of Lynn grew up from very small beginnings. From the best information obtainable, David H. Estes, of Ward Seven, seems to have been the pioneer in the business of selling cut sole leather. But he cut no soles. He bought the odds and ends of leather, and cut them into innersoles and stiffenings, selling them to those manufacturers that had need of such supplies. This was about the year 1845. Mr. Estes' business increased, but he confined it, mainly, to the cheaper grades of soles, inner-soles and stiffenings. He continued in this business until his death, in December, 1878.

A year or two later John Spinney engaged in the same business, in a small way, in connection with the shoe business. About the same time Perry Newhall began business in the same line, cutting, at first, only cheap soles, stiffenings, etc., obtained from "roundings." This was the term used by curriers who "rounded off" with their knife the shank, or that part of the hide that was unfit for "upper" leather. Sole leather, which, in old times, came untrimmed - that is, was sent to market in full sides, including skirts, bellies, shanks, etc., was afterward trimmed, or "cropped" before being shipped, and hence took the name of "cropped" leather. Mr. Newhall's business at first was confined to the cutting of these "roundings ;" but as the shoe trade of the town grew, a demand arose for cut soles ready to hand.

As already intimated, the supply of a certain sort of soles would accumulate in the hands of the old-time manufacturer. In the season of "heavy work" thick soles would be in demand, and there would be a surplus of light soles; and in the season of "light work" the reverse of this would occur.

As the shoe interest of the city became larger, the want of an arrangement was felt by which the bosses could dispose of their surplus stock. The early sole dealers, and Mr. Newhall especially, met this want. At first their business was dealing in soles, rather than cutting them. As Mr. Newhall went the rounds among his customers, one would inform him that he had a lot of "heavy" or "light" soles, as the case may have been. Mr. Newhall - having, perhaps, a customer for them, in his eye - would buy his heavy soles and sell him a lot of light ones.

Gradually he took up the sole-cutting business in all its departments; supplying every grade, from the heaviest to the lightest. Mr. Newhall was, doubtless, the pioneer in this business, covering the whole field of sole-cutting. He is still in business, the veteran, as well as the pioneer, of a trade that has since reached such vast proportions.

Thomas Hicks Attwill began the business soon after Mr. Newhall. Like those who went before him, he began by cutting "roundings," and confined his trade chiefly to cheap soles, stiffenings, etc. As business extended he cut a larger variety of soles, though he bought and cut few whole sides. He continued in business until the close of 1852.

In January, 1853, his son, Theodore Attwill, took up the business. He cut soles of every grade, and as the demand for cut soles rapidly increased, he soon became the leading dealer in everything pertaining to this branch of the trade. He also dealt largely in sole leather. Mr. Attwill retired from this business in 1877.

William A. Bacheller began business in 1854. His trade, like others, at first was small, and contined to the cutting of "roundings" and pieces into stiffenings and cheap soles. His trade increased, and he soon did a large business in sole-cutting in all its branches. He is still engaged in business in Bubier's Block, on the west side of Market street.

George E. Batcheller, brother of William, began business in 1856. Like others who did business when this trade was a new industry, Mr. Batcheller cut few sales at first; but his trade increased until his business covered the whole field of sole-cutting. Mr. Batcheller is still engaged in business in Sweetser's Block, on Railroad avenue, near Union street.

About 1860 Samuel Boyce began the business of sole-cutting, to some extent, in connection with the manufacture of shoes; but his business was small in this line, until the revival of business, soon after the beginning of the war. His trade then largely increased, and continued until his death, in 1875.

In January, 1860, Peter Johnson and C. A. Johnson formed a partnership. Their shop was on Spring street. They continued in business one year. Peter, soon after, established himself on the corner of Railroad avenue and Willow street. He cut children's soles chiefly, this branch of the trade having grown rapidly during the few preceding years. In 1866 he formed a partnership with his son, H. F. Johnson. Their place of business was on Union street, a few rods east of Washington street. Mr. Johnson retired from the firm near the close of 1871, when a new one was formed of H. F. & Herbert, a younger brother. They have done a thriving business, confining their trade entirely to the cutting and sale of children's soles.

In 1861 Christopher Johnson, Jr., Martin H. Hood and C. A. Johnson entered the sole-cutting business, under the firm of Johnson, Hood & Co. They did a very large business, and cut soles of every grade. In 1868 C. A. Johnson withdrew, and the business was continued by the remaining partners of the firm. Thomas C. Johnson then became a partner, the firm being known as Johnson, Hood & Co.

In April, 1871, Christopher Johnson, Jr., withdrew, and set up business in the basement of the bank building, on Exchange street. The firm continued the business at the old stand until the Fall of 1879, when they changed their quarters to the new block of Walter S. Dickson, standing between Central avenue and Willow street. The firm then became known as Hood, Johnson & Co. Soon after their removal, a branch of their business - sometime before established - removed to the old stand. It is at present the largest establishment of the kind in the city, and probably in the world.

In the Fall of 1871 Christopher Johnson, Jr., removed his business to the block of Benjamin F. Spinney, corner of Union and Almont streets. His trade increased rapidly, and in 1873 his business rivalled that of any establishment in the city. Mr. Johnson retired from business in 1874.

Edwin Hulen began business in 1860, in West Lynn. Mr. Hulen did a moderate business until his death, in 1865.

Asa Mullen began business about 1860. He retired from business in 1872.

James P. Boyce began business in 1863. Mr, Boyce did a large business until 1870, when he retired. His successors, James A. Breed and James Hilliker, under the firm of Breed & Hilliker, followed in the same line, and are still doing business at the same stand.

Eustis Newhall began business in 1864. He was the pioneer in cuttmg men's soles. Mr. Newhall is now doing business on Willow street, facing Munroe street. He has lately increased his business, and has now (1880) one of the largest establishments in the city.

George & Brother began business on Exchange street in 1865. They soon after removed to their present location, a few rods east, on the same street. Their business steadily increased, and during the last few years their establishment has been one of the largest in the city. They are still in business.

David Boynton began business in 1865, on Washington street, near the railroad. He has always done a large business, and has made a specialty of cutting men's soles. He occupied this store ten years. In 1875 he formed a partnership with William H. Bancroft, and removed to Sweetser's new block, on the corner of Washington and Oxford streets. The destruction of this block by fire in 1878 caused their removal to the next building, where they are now located. Their trade in men's soles is the largest in the city, and their sales to outside buyers, far and near, is larger than that of any other establishment.

Proctor & Ingalls began business in 1865, in the basement of Lucian Newhall's block, on Exchange street. This firm has always done a large business. The have occupied their present store, on Union street, a few rods from the corner of Exchange street, since 1872.

William A. Attwill began business about 1866, on North Common street. He continued in the trade but a short time.

Brown & Oliver began business in 1866, on Boston street, near the Saugus line. They removed to the basement of J. N. Smith's block, on Union street, in 1873. They removed to their present stand, on Central avenue, in 1877. They have done, and are still doing, quite a large business.

Jeremiah L. Libbey began business in 1865, on Union street. In 1879 he took his son as partner, the firm now being known as J. L. Libbey & Son. Mr. Libbey has always done a large business.

Hill & Lothrop began business in 1869. In 1871 Robert Bartlett & Son took the business, and carried it on till 1878, when the son retired, and Mr. Bartlett senior continued the business. His present location is in the basement of Bubier's Block, on the west side of Market street.

Lothrop & Bowen began business near the close of 1872, on Union street. They Soon after removed to their present location in Haskell's Block, opposite. Their trade has steadily increased, and they now do a large business.

Walter S. Dickson began business in 1873. His trade increased rapidly, and in 1879 he removed to his new block, at the east end of the triangle between Willow street and Central avenue.

Charles E. Harwood began business as a sole cutter in 1867, in connection with the sale of heels, and the cutting of stiffenings, etc. He cuts, chiefly, soles of a cheaper grade. His present place of business is on Union street, opposite Sweetser's Block.

W. W. George began business in 1879. He is doing a large and increasing business.

Charles H. Libbey & Son began business in 1879, on Union street, near the head of Washington street.

Rufus E. Hilliard began business the present year (1880) in the basement of Sweetser's Block, corner of Oxford street and Central avenue. His trade has rapidly increased, and he is now doing a large business.

T. W. Tyler & Co. have lately taken up the business of cutting a cheap grade of soles, in connection with their business as dealers in rubber goods.

Besides the business done by those who confine themselves to this branch of trade exclusively, there are thousands of pairs cut and sold annually by some of our large shoe manufacturers, besides those needed for their own use. Some of these, whose business requires a heavy grade of soles, accumulate a stock of a lighter grade. These they sell. Others, whose trade is in a cheaper kind of shoe, have a surplus of high-priced soles which they dispose of.

This business is almost exclusively a Lynn industry. Very few soles are cut - to sell - elsewhere. Haverhill does something in this line; but her trade, as compared with that of Lynn, is insignificant. The trade of or city in cut leather reaches all over the country, and it is estimated that from one-third to one-half of the entire product is sold to dealers in other places.

As already mentioned in the "General Review" the first sole-cutting machine used in Lynn was invented by Richard Richards, of Lynn, in 1844. Shortly after, George Foster made some improvements in this machine; and still later John Thompson, of Marblehead, added some new features, which were patented. These machines had two revolving knives, each blade turning and cutting one side of the sole alternately. One or two other machines, acting on different principles, were used for a short time.

In 1860 David Knox, an ingenious mechanic of Lynn, made a radical improvement in the machines in use, for which he obtained a patent. The peculiarity consisted in the reciprocal motion of the two knives, which, playing on a short arm, cut alternately each side of the sole, as each blade descended by turns into the same groove of the cutting block. This machine soon superseded all others in use.

To illustrate the economy of labor which this machine brought about, it is only necessary to say that the old-time cutter, standing at the "leather-board," could cut by hand - if smart - ten middling sized sides of leather a day. An active man, with one of these machines, can cut two hundred and fifty sides, after they have been cut into strips by the "stripper," as described in a previous chapter.

These machines have been generally run by steam power in the large establishments since 1872. This does not much accelerate the movement; but it saves the strength of the operative, and especially the muscles of the right leg, upon which there was a constant strain when the machine was run by "foot power;" and it goes, besides, with a steadiness of motion that saves the wear and tear of the machine.

In the "General Review" - page 19 - the "stripper" was mentioned as preceding the "sole cutter." Its use was nearly simultaneous, or followed immediately.

The following figures, from a statement prepared by George W. Mudge, who is authority on all matters relating to this branch of trade, will give some idea of the magnitude of this business:

"During the past year there has been cut four hundred and eight thousand seven hundred and twenty (4087,20) sides, weighing six millions seven hundred and forty-three thousand eight hundred and eighty (6,743,880) pounds, being a weekly average of seven thousand eight hundred and sixty (7,860) sides, weighing one hundred and twenty-nine thousand six hundred and ninety (129,690) pounds. The estimated number of pairs of soles, embracing men's, women's, misses' and children's, is fifteen millions five hundred and thirty-one thousand three hundred and sixty (15,531 ,360) pairs, being a weekly average of two hundred and ninety-eight thousand six hundred and eighty (298,680) pairs.

The value of this leather before cutting is estimated at about $1,900,000.

These figures were obtained in 1879, and the trade has largely increased since.

The amount of business now done (1880) is estimated at about $3,000,000.

As already hinted in a preceding chapter, the outcome of all this is a more perfect product. The work done in Lynn, in every branch of the shoe business, was never so good as at present. The law of adaptation is recognized, and guides every process. There is little waste, and that little is becoming less. Everything is utilized. In short, scientific exactness takes the place of guesswork, and systematic economy the place of wasteful methods.